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How much should you feed?
Why "a bit less of the same" fails
Cutting the scoop by a third sounds like dieting, but it cuts everything - protein, vitamins, minerals - along with the calories. VCA warns that simply reducing the volume of a dog's current food can cause deficiencies of important micronutrients over time. A proper weight-loss plan uses a restricted-calorie food designed to stay complete at smaller portions, so the dog eats fewer calories without eating less nutrition.
What actually determines the portion
Four things. The food itself: calorie density varies enormously between foods, so a cup of one brand is not a cup of another. The dog's target weight: portions are usually calculated for where the dog should be, not where they are - your vet sets that target using the body condition score. Life stage and activity: a young working dog and a senior lap dog need different amounts. And what else gets eaten: treats, chews and table food all count toward the day.
Measure, don't eyeball
Consistency is the plan. Feed measured portions - a kitchen scale beats a scoop, and a marked scoop beats a random mug - at set times rather than free-feeding from a bottomless bowl. When portions are fixed and measured, a slow trend up or down is easy to spot and easy to correct. When portions drift, the dog's waistline drifts with them and nobody knows why.
The check that makes it work
VCA recommends monthly weigh-ins during any weight plan, and weighing each time you assess body condition. A scale at the vet's office, a pet store, or a home scale (weigh yourself holding the dog, then without) all work. The weight tracker keeps the numbers in one place so you and your vet can see the trend instead of guessing at it.
When the plan stalls
If portions are measured, treats are counted, and the weight still isn't moving after a few weeks, that's a vet conversation - either the calorie target needs adjusting or something medical is involved. The guide on medical causes of weight gain covers what vets look for.